My friend and fellow brewer Matt lives here in Gdansk. Unfortunately the day before I flew here, he arrived in Frankfurt to spend the week. But being the good host he is, he provided me a map to some of the best beer locations in town. Five locations made the cut, three of which brewed their own beers.
First stop was Restaurancja Barbados/Brower Trojmiejski. They were apparently the closest thing to an American brew house with five beers, a Hefeweizen, a Keller-style Helles, a Pils, an IPA and a Dunkel. All were drinkable, the Hefeweizen, called Dominikanskie, the best of the lot. Here’s the flight, as well as my Polish rye-flour soup:
Next to two beer emporia. Both had beers from all over Europe. At the first I took the Alebrowar “King of Hop” IPA. It was rather nice but missing a strong hop backbone, used a rather floral-citrusy hop rather than a strong American style for aroma. But hey, it’s Poland and, having just left the land of the Reinheitsgebot and a hundred similar pilsners, it’s a refreshing change. At the second beer emporium I had a locally brewed Brett Brown. Nice, some muted Brett characteristics but a bit thin in the mouth, probably a result of bretanomyces fermenting the complex sugars out of a normal wort. I had my dinner at the second brewery, barbequed pork ribs and a Bitter to wash it down. Again, the hops were a bit strange but I was able to peg it as a bitter without being told what it was so not bad. The final brewer was on one of the canals in the old city at the Hotel Gdansk. Two beers on tap to match the classic oompah band outside, a helles and a dunkles. The Dunkel had more Baltic character and was the far superior beer.
I enjoyed the tour, first of the old city and second of the beers. Gdansk is a friendly town, full of bright young faces. It’s touristy in the old city but the waitress at the final brew pub treated me to an experience I’ll not soon forget, the Polish version of Uber. I’ll count this a really good day.